Seed Starting
by Jenna Marshall
Seed starting is not as complicated as you might think. Once you have tried it a time or two, I think you will be hooked. It's a great way to save money in the garden and still get a big payoff. We all know that buying enough plants to fill a garden can cost a pretty penny. It can get you a big jump start on the growing season. Some northern climates have very short growing seasons, and some plants will not have time to flower or fruit if they weren't started early. It's a simple and enjoyable way to expand the growing season.
PLANNING The best way to get good results from seed starting is to plan ahead. I would recommend that you don't skip this step. A little planning now will save you time and frustration later. For first-timers, I would suggest keeping a journal. This way, if you do make mistakes, you will be able to identify later where you went wrong, and how to avoid that next time. Start by finding the average last frost date for your area. You can find this from the Farmer's Almanac, local weathermen, or just some experienced gardeners in your area. This date will determine the plant time for your seeds. Then check your seed packets and follow the guidelines listed for planting. Take the average frost date and count backwards the number of weeks recommended on your seed packets. Then, select your containers. They should be clean and around 2 1/2 - 3 inches tall. It should have drainage holes in the bottom. If it doesn't, be sure to poke small holes before using. You can use commercial flats and planters, or you can recycle household items such as milk or egg cartons, yogurt cups, or aluminum pans.
It is important that you use a light soil for seed starting. Most regular garden soils can harden a bit after a few waterings. The roots on seedlings aren't strong enough to push through most garden soils, so it is a good idea to use a potting mix. There are many pre-made potting soils, some made specifically for seed starting. Or you can make your own using one part sphagnum moss, one part perlite, and one part vermiculite. After you have chosen your potting medium, it should be moistened throughout. Wet it and mix well, handling the soil gently so it doesn't compact. When you squeeze a handful of the soil, only a small amount of liquid should drip out. If it is too saturated, add more soil until you reach the right level. Then, fill your containers to the top. Tap the container on a table to level and remove large air pockets.
TEMPERATURE Seeds need warmth to germinate. The ideal temperature would be between 75 and 90 degrees. You can find warm spots near your stove or on top of your fridge, heating vents, and under fluorescent lights. You can also use heat mats underneath to keep them at an even, warm temperature. They are easy to use and inexpensive. While the seeds are germinating, do not put them on window sills. The temperatures tend to vary during the day and get too cool at night. After your seeds have germinated, reduce the temperature. Most seedlings do well between 65 and 75 degrees. This slows down the growth, making your plants hardier. They develop a stockier build. If you keep the seedlings too warm for too long, they can grow weak and spindly, and will not do well in the garden.
WATERING It is important to keep the soil moist, but don't soak it or the seeds may not germinate. When using tap water, let it set out 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate. Chlorine is toxic to plants. Keep the water at room temperature. Too hot or too cold and interrupt the germination process. A good way to water your seeds is to use a spray bottle and mist the surface. You can also use a watering can with a fine spray. After your seedlings have sprouted and are about 2-3 inches tall, don't water them quite as much. This helps to discourage root rot from forming. Try to let the top 1/2 inch dry out between waterings.
LIGHTING Seeds don’t need light. As long as your seeds are warm, moist and have a place to grow, they are happy. Seedlings, on the other hand, need 12-14 hours of direct sunlight. It is better, in my opinion, to have too much than not enough. I’ve found that it is hard to get that much light through any window in my house. If you have that luxury, I say go for it! Just be sure to rotate the tray every couple of days so the plants don’t lean to one side. Fluorescent lights are a good alternative if you don’t have this much natural light. They work well and give a consistent amount of light that you control. The light is placed directly overhead, usually hung by chains about 6 inches above the plants.
FEEDING Each seed has a built-supply of food that it needs to germinate. It is not until the seeds germinate that you should feed them. A weak mixture of fertilizer – half of what a normal dose is – should be gently applied shortly after the seeds germinate.
THINNING A lot of first-time gardeners get stumped on thinning out seedlings. It’s really not difficult, but it takes a little patience and a gentle hand. You should begin thinning your seedlings when they develop their first set of true leaves. These are the second set of leaves the plant will develop. Now is the time to give them a little room to grow. You can move them to cells, pots, or flats, but be sure you keep them 2-3 inches apart. Fill your new container with your growing medium and make holes for your seedlings. You are going to keep only the best seedlings. Don’t pluck or yank on them and avoid handling the roots. Try to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible. Handle only by the leaves. Move your seedling to the new hole and pack the soil around it. The hole should be deep enough to place the seedling in up to its first set of leaves (not the true leaves). Pack the soil around the roots and stem. And gently water. Now, give it time to recover. It is going through transplant shock, and may look a little puny for several hours.
HARDENING OFF A week or so before that magical planting day, you need to get the plants ready to be in the great outdoors. This is called hardening off. It is a transition stage between the bubble environment of the indoors to the unpredictable Mother Nature. Start by putting your plants outside 1-2 hours per day. Be sure to keep them protected from extreme heat and wind. They are still babies. Also, because of wind and heat, they will dry out quickly. Keep an eye on the moisture levels. Gradually increase the length of exposure over time. If your plants don’t appear to be handling the transition well, reduce the time and let them recover.
TRANSPLANTING Once your average last frost date arrives, weather permitting, of course, you are ready and clear to plant your seedlings. Pick a day that is cloudy or try late afternoon to plant. This will help you avoid too much transplant shock. Remember, the roots are still fragile, so try to handle the root ball as little as possible. Try to handle by the stem. Dig your hole deep enough to cover the plant up to its first set of true leaves. Put your plant in and pack the soil around to ensure there is good contact with the root and stem. Having it submerged up to the first set of leaves will encourage root growth on the buried portion of the stem.
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